Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Trotanoy, poured from magnum, is ferociously backward on the nose. With black cherries, raspberry coulis, truffle and touches of iodine with aeration, this threatens to overwhelm the senses. The palate is a beast: huge concentration, uncompromising with massive weight; this is a Pomerol that says, “Bugger off and come back in a decade.” Well, that’s just what I would advise. Poured in Puligny-Montrachet at a private dinner.