2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the entire palate. Finishes very long, with a boatload of tannins. This is huge in terms of its fruit, tannins, alcohol (14%) and acidity (the pH is just 3.3). Leroux believes that it’s even riper than the 1990 version, but notes that this style of wine is not why I’m working in Burgundy. This should evolve in bottle for at least two decades, but I believe it’s already beginning to shut down.