Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

Although it was my favorite decade for this Saint-Émilion, the 2004 Figeac has always quietly impressed with its quality. This ex-château bottle, opened for my wedding anniversary, shows beautifully at 15 years old. Still deep in color with modest bricking on the rim, it has a seductive bouquet of black fruit, mulberry, graphite and fireside hearth. Decanting for three hours clearly benefits the aromatics, which leap in intensity with aeration. The palate is classic Figeac, equidistant between Left and Right Bank in style, touches of dark chocolate and clove infusing the dark berry fruit. The tannins have softened since I last tasted this wine, rendering it perfectly drinkable now, although it will easily give another 15 years of pleasure. Tasted at home.