A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is consistently brilliant at the moment. This is the third bottle tasted in almost as many months. It has a vivacious bouquet with blackberry, tar and tobacco. It’s mineral-driven with a gorgeous wilted rose petal scent embroidered into the aromatic profile. The palate has an effortless quality all of its own, filigree tannins and unerring symmetry with a peacock’s tail towards the pixelated finish. How is it possible not to fall in love with this? Tasted blind at Olivier Bernard’s “3” dinner at Domaine de Chevalier.