Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Clos l’Eglise is backward and initially reticent on the nose, gaining its voice with aeration, the mixture of red and black fruit augmented by black truffle and incense aromas and later a hint of ground chalk. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and fine acidity, quite lithe and harmonious, revealing hints of truffle and almost ash-like notes toward the firm finish. It does not quite display the panache of its Saint-Émilion stablemate Barde-Haut, although it does have impressive grip and backbone, suggesting that it will require 5–7 years in the cellar.