Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot): Deep purple-ruby. Perfumed nose of violet and ripe blackberry jam. Smooth, rich and almost sweet on entry, then increasingly austere, with the sweet cassis and delicate herbal flavors overshadowed by rising, raw tannins. I detected a slightly green quality on the long finish. Though this wine lacks the amazingly sweet flesh of the ’09 and ’10 wines, and the classic elegance of the ’08, I like its precision. Alfred Tesseron told me the estate picked late, on October 4, to offer the grapes a greater chance of reaching suitable ripeness, but they harvested quickly, using an extra sorting table.