Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2008)

(98.5% cabernet sauvignon) Full ruby-red. Pure aromas of cassis, mocha and nutty oak, with bright red berry and tobacco notes emerging with air. Superripe and thick but with strong acidity giving sharp definition to the middle palate. The blackcurrant and smoky oak flavors are sexed up by subtle hints of caramel, spices and burning cinders as the wine opens in the glass. I love the balance of lush texture and firm acidity, not to mention the wine’s sheer intensity of flavor without excesses, but this highly distinctive cabernet really needs at least six or seven years of patience to come into full harmony.