A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

My third bottle of 1979 Cheval Blanc confirms a rather run-of-the-mill Saint-Émilion. It’s now showing wide bricking on the rim, and the nose feels a little enervated and leathery, suggesting that the Cabernet did not achieve complete ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannin, and slightly harsh in the mouth, with an attenuated finish. Drink bottles sooner rather than later.