Focus on California (May 2003)

(83% cabernet sauvignon, 9% cab franc, 5% merlot and 3% petit verdot) Full red-ruby. Crystallized redcurrant, licorice, shoe polish, smoky oak and menthol on the nose. Dense, lush and sweet, but ultimately a Dominus of moderate size and scale. Fruit-driven flavors of redcurrant, black cherry and tobacco, with a hint of fresh herbs. Finishes with firm but fine tannins and a slight medicinal austerity. A stylish, rather Pauillac-like wine with lovely clarity of flavor. My sample had been poured into a decanter two hours before I tasted it and showed the benefits of aerating a very young cabernet-based wine. The same wine from a new bottle showed much more pungent green pepper and bay laurel aromas and a leaner texture.