Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1983 Yquem is one of the standouts from the decade. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay brought a bottle to our London tasting but unfortunately it was obviously corked. Fortunately, a friend opened another that chimed with my previous encounters. This underwent a long harvest thanks to the clement weather from 29 September until 19 November. It has a dense, marmalade, quince and orange rind-scented bouquet with just a hint of burnt toffee. The palate is very intense and concentrated, powerful with that marmalade theme continuing, flanked by Manuka honey, crème brûlée and tinned apricot. It comes across slightly Germanic towards the finish that fans out gloriously. Divine. Tasted blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux.