Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It’s simply one of the First Growth’s best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet is delivered with such panache. The palate is medium-bodied but, if anything, appears to have gained weight in recent years. Cedar-infused black fruit, allspice and tobacco, with a subtle marine influence, appear toward the finish. It is a fabulous Haut-Brion that should not be overlooked. Tasted at the Lia’s Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.