Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1928 Château Margaux is one of the oldest vintages that I have encountered and has a formidable reputation. This did not disappoint. Deep in hue like many 1928s at this stage, it boasts a fabulous graphite-tinged bouquet that like the 1982 came across quite Pauillac in style, implying that there might have been a relatively high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend compared to coeval vintages. The palate is medium-bodied, stocky and dense, perhaps not the longest in terms of length and maybe “static” compared to coeval First Growths. Yet I adore the manner in which it mutates in the glass, softening and revealing flourishes of mulberry and cedar, later a hint of salted liquorish. Bottles of sound provenance will still give pleasure but do not be afraid to decant. Tasted at the International Business & Wine First Growth Dinner at the Four Seasons.