Rheingau & Mittelrhein Riesling: Rising to 2017’s Challenges (Aug 2019)

Apple and orange on the nose anticipate this bottling’s subtly citrus pip- and kumquat-tinged juiciness. “I associate orange and kumquat with those parts of Kiedrich [Einzellage: Sandgrub] that are on the Eltville side and have quite heavy clay,” observes Fricke. There is a polish to the texture here that is relatively rare for the vintage, to say nothing of a refinement to the flavors as well as an overall sense of energy and lift that distinguish this bottling from those among earlier Fricke Kiedricher that I have tasted, a circumstance the vintner attributes to her Kiedrich having as of this vintage been farmed organically for three years. A lick of salt lends welcome salivary stimulation to the clinging finish.