Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Grivot is aging this wine in 50% new oak but seasoned the barrels first with a Chardonnay vinification; all of the fruit from the lower section of this site was lost to frost but the terraces were unaffected): Bright red-ruby. Pure but reticent scents of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and spices are accented by a touch of gunflint minerality. Sappy and fine-grained, offering terrific intensity and depth to its precise flavors of dark berries and spices. Grivot has long thought that his Aux Brûlées vines on a south-facing terrace are too sun-drenched in warmer years, but he noted that this is the first vintage he has really liked for its energy and sophistication, describing the wine as less Brigitte Bardot than normal. He credits this to more intracellular fermentation with a higher percentage of whole berries.