Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2006 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked September 27–30 at 26hl/ha, at 13.7° alcohol, and offers a stark contrast to the 2005. It has long been a much broodier proposition, showing more black fruit than red, and almost Bordeaux-like in terms of its light cedar tincture, although here there is less of the licorice element. The tight-fisted, introspective palate demands coaxing from the glass. There is plenty of sinew here, though I wonder whether that comes from Nature or from extended skin maceration – I suspect the latter. This is a bold and demanding Clos des Tart, though I am less enthusiastic than in my previous notes, since the tannins seem to override the terroir more than I originally expected. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.