A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Pape-Clément fails to replicate a superb bottle that I encountered back in 2010, although I do find improvement in the glass. The fragrant, well-defined bouquet presents pressed flowers, melted asphalt, brambly red fruit and orange blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin, plenty of cedar and black pepper; more pencil lead develops with aeration that might lead you to the Médoc. There is good density here, perhaps indicating a Pape-Clément that will benefit from a good decant or indeed, further cellaring. Very fine old-school Pessac-Léognan. Tasted blind at lunch in London.