A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Vieux Chateau Certan is a vintage that I have not tasted often, something I rue even more having been reacquainted with it. To be honest, for the first five minutes it felt overawed by the 1989. However, it soon gets its act together to deliver and gorgeous nose of black fruit, melted tar and cigar box, unashamedly classic in style, less sensual than the succeeding two vintages and yet extremely well defined. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity, tobacco and cedar dominating the second half and yet there remains more than enough freshness and length to urge you back for another sip. Superb. Tasted at the VCC dinner with François Thienpont, hosted by Wine Source in London.