Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

Not to be outdone, the 1995 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine Vincent Dauvissat ranks as one of the greatest mature bottles that I have encountered from this esteemed producer. It is blessed with a fabulous bouquet, featuring fresh earth, cockle shells and just a hint of menthol. It’s one of those aromatics that you could nose all evening; it’s almost ineffably complex. The palate matches the brilliant aromatics with astonishing spiciness and profound depth. This Les Clos is like a heavyweight boxer entering the ring and flooring his opponent with balletic grace. Wow.