Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(65% vendange entier): Dark red with ruby tones; not quite as deeply colored as the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. Very dark aromas of black raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice, plus a hint of leathery reduction. At once densely packed and penetrating; a distinctly sappy, very dark style of Clos Saint-Jacques with considerable finesse and length. But hard to assess today as it’s in a reductive phase. (Sylvie Esmonin normally picks this vineyard toward the end, but noted that in 2017 she harvested her strip of Clos Saint-Jacques at the same time as Rousseau and well before Jadot.)