Rheinhessen and Nahe 2015: Cool Concentration from a “Warm Vintage” (Nov 2017)

Cooling oregano and zesty fresh lime and lemon inform a penetratingly pungent nose and a firm, concentrated palate in this amalgamation of fruit from Keller’s Grosses Gewächs sites. Juiciness and crunch of cucumber and ripe apple highlight the virtues he rightly associates with his 2015 fruit as well as the virtues of high-active-lime soil. The consummately refreshing finish is vibrant, remarkably buoyant and transparent to nuances of chalk, stone and iodine. Keller elected to limit his source material this year to vines of 30 years or older, resulting in a smaller production of Von der Fels than in other recent vintages.