New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(these vines, now averaging at least 15 years of age, are starting to reach maturity; Cloudy Bay has reduced its use of yeasts that produce a lot of thiols and esters, according to Operation Manager Daniel Sorrell; 10% oak is used to add texture): Bright, pale yellow. Lovely penetrating aromas and flavors of pineapple, grapefruit, lemon zest, spices and minerals. Bone-dry but the oak element rounds off the wine and contributes a subtle sweetness to its savory, very pure lemon and grapefruit flavors. Fine-grained Sauvignon Blanc with gentle but present acidity and attractive texture and lift. Hints at nettles but this is not a pungently herbal style in 2015. Finishes round and long. Ninety-five percent of these grapes are grown on rugged, free-draining riverbed soil around the winery, which automatically reduces yields, according to Sorrell. You must get the picking dates right, which means early to mid-March in warm, dry years to preserve freshness, he told me. Incidentally, this was Cloudy Bay’s 30th anniversary harvest.