Alsace: The 2014s and Late-Release 2013s (Feb 2016)

Bright straw-gold. Minty herbs and flint complement rich, ripe citrus fruit and vanilla aromas. Dense, very ripe and suave, showing spicy sweetness and outstanding length to the tropical fruit and floral flavors. A caramelly botrytis presence on the finish adds charm but is a bit overpowering. This is the first-ever cru bottling for the Hugel estate, made from the heart of the Schoenenbourg on marly-clay soils. It’s part of a project born 25 or 30 years ago, when winemaker Marc Hugel decided to vinify separately every single parcel of vines owned by the Hugel family (no small feat) to see what each could give and which were best blended together. The Schoelhammer is a relatively young vineyard (planted in 1990), but Hugel always felt it produced a very specific, strikingly different wine from all the rest, and so he finally decided to bottle it separately. I find it almost too forward and easy to drink, even a little one-dimensional in the early going; hopefully, it will blossom in the years to come, gaining in complexity and lift.