Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(from vines planted in 1993; Conterno purchased three prime hectares in this Serralunga cru in 2008): Good bright red. Knockout sweet aromas of smoke, minerals and dried flowers. Offers outstanding inner-mouth energy to its intense red fruit, smoke and mineral flavors, conveying great density without any obvious impression of weight. Finishes with big, subtle, building tannins and great perfumed persistence. Conterno told me that he vinified the clay and calcaire elements separately before blending the two components. Incidentally, after racking his Barolos three times in the first year, he does minimal racking thereafter and bottles without fining or filtration. He does less pumping over during the vinification of the Cerretta because he does not want to extract too much tannin. He may bottle this first release of the Cerretto entirely in magnums. (Incidentally, I also tasted a sample of the 2011 version of this wine. It showed a slightly liqueur-like quality to its fruit but was wonderfully fresh and youthful for the vintage, showing outstanding balance of fruit and tannins.)