Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(picked at 12.9% potential alcohol and chaptalized to 13.1%, which Benoit Stehly described as typical for the vintage): Good medium red; darker than the village wines. Inviting ripe perfume of cherry, raspberry, dried flowers and crushed rock. A step up in silky ripeness from the estate’s village wines, but also offering lovely inner-mouth energy and precision to its sweet, smooth flavors of red berries, mocha, minerals and flowers. There’s more wine here! The rising spicy/floral finish displays substantial but fine-grained tannins and a leathery nuance. Perhaps a touch rustic but I like this. Clos des Ormes is the estate’s largest holding, at two hectares, and includes a range of soil types and vine age.