Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Medium red. Explosive, superripe aromas of marzipan, truffle, underbrush and nutmeg. Fat, rich and deep, with an almost confectionery sweetness supported by huge, toothdusting tannins. Intriguing notes of mocha and brown spices. I find this less classy and elegant today than the Asili but more powerfully structured for aging. I can understand Giacosa’s decision to label this as riserva, as it’s built for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle, while the Asili offers more early appeal.