2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(one-quarter each clairette, grenache blanc, bourboulenc and picpoul, raised in stainless steel): Bright gold. An expressive bouquet evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers and minerals. Racy and precise on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering juicy orange and pear flavors braced by a hint of lemon zest. Finishes with very good grip and cut, the citrus note echoing. The malo is blocked here, Avril says,because it is critical to preserve the wine’s freshness so that it can age gracefully. He recommends drinking his white Chateauneuf either young, with shellfish, or with about a decade of bottle age, with richer foods like poultry or lobster.