2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Altero from Poggio Antico is an unapologetically fruit-forward and oak-influenced effort. Crushed blackberries, currants, plums and balsamic spices find lift through mentholated herbal tones. It’s medium-bodied and velvety in texture, with stimulating acids to contrast its weight, showing ripe red/black fruits offset by sour citrus. The palate aches with youthful tension throughout the cheek-puckering finale, leaving hints of cedar and tobacco. A short stay in the cellar may help add a little more balance here, but the 2016 Altero simply seems to be a little too big for its own good.