Vinous Table: SO|LA, London, UK (Jun 2021)

The first of two reds was the legendary 1961 Haut-Brion. I took over cork-pulling duties and managed to gently ease it out with a waiter’s friend. (I’m a dab hand; it’s all about patience and measuring the pressure of the cork as it is extracted.) Deep in color, this showed a little funk on the nose that did not entirely blow off, though the palate was sturdy and deep, delivering pitted black olive mixed with hung game, a little feral but impressive.