Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1996 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a little subdued on the nose and does not quite convey the same complexity as the 1998 by direct comparison. Dark and broody, this feels aloof and distant. It is much better on the palate with an almost rigid tannic backbone, sturdy and grippy in the mouth, although you have to say, you would have liked a little more charm. This is one Bonnes-Mares that reflects the style of Burgundy winemaking at that time, maybe just a little over-extracted in the winery? Tasted at the Roumier vertical in London.