Vinous Table: Noble Rot – Mayfair, London, UK (Jun 2023)

The 1949 Yquem is a vintage that I have not encountered. I will quote the official château website, which gives a succinct overview of the vintage… “This year had record temperatures as well as drought conditions that caused the biggest forest fire France has ever known. Showers in May and June limited water stress, and light showers in early September gave rise to botrytis. The whole crop was brought in thanks to just two passes [between September 27 and October 17]. Yields were low, but quality high.” Well, this bottle was divine. Iridescent in color, the bouquet explodes from the glass with a chorus line of Seville orange marmalade, quince and a distant tang of an outdoor lido, a trait that I often find in Sauternes in this era. The aromatics are brilliantly defined. The palate is tensile and energetic, a Yquem with real edge, tangy marmalade and freshly sliced apricot, a little drier on the finish than the 1947 but with otherworldly persistence. It is a fabulous Sauternes that will gallop to a century-old without breaking a sweat.