This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in its place – atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction issues with this wine, possibly from the use of SO2 in the vineyard as they converted to organic, that dissipated but then returned. The palate is much better and I suspect augurs for what is to come: filigree tannin, precise, mineral-driven, plenty of fresh and vibrant red fruit with impressive tension and vivacity on the pretty and pure finish. If you own bottles then I recommend cellaring for another three or four years, as I am sure the aromatics will return after this “dumb phase”. Tasted at Flint Wines’s Domaine Dujac tasting in London.