Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has always lain in the shadow of the 1990. There is something atypical about this vintage. It has an uncharacteristically high-toned bouquet with black cherries, black olives, and plenty of mint (maybe too much so that it veers toward spearmint). The palate is medium-bodied with graphite-infused black fruit. It is redeemed by GPL’s tendency towards wonderful symmetry with a hint of seaweed on the finish. It’s enjoyable, but there’s a reason it lies in the shadow of the 1990. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.