Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Delicate, floral aromas of violets, red berries and tobacco, with a hint of pine needles. Bright and fresh on entry, this lighter-styled, easygoing version of Cheval Blanc offers pretty red cherry and raspberry flavors nicely lifted by a citrus twist. Finishes very long, pure and suave, with fine-grained tannins. Though cabernet franc is apparent on the nose, this is yet another Cheval Blanc characterized by a large percentage of merlot. And even though estate manager Pierre Lurton told me that all the great Cheval Blancs of recent memory had a majority of merlot, I long for the cabernet franc-dominated wines of yesteryear. For my money, bring on more ’82s rather than ’89s, as great as both of those wines are!