Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2018 Barbaresco Riserva Albesani Santo Stefano is a powerful, brooding wine. There’s more oak impact here, and that leaves the wine feeling too constricted, like a person wearing a piece of clothing that is one size too small. Dark macerated cherry, spice, leather and tobacco open gradually. The Riserva is not a bad wine, far from it. But there is quite a bit more potential here.