Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

The 1997 Solaia is a wine that I remember made a huge splash on release (I recall buying dozens of cases from Switzerland to ship to Japan). It had been many years since I last tasted it. Poured from magnum, I find a little smudged on the nose compared directly with the 1988 Sassicaia. This is a voluptuous, heady bouquet with Maraschino cherries, pine, pressed iris flower and cassis, with cherry liqueur evolving in time. The palate follows in a similar character, sweet and a little confit in style, with melted tannins, kirsch, cassis fruit and a dash of allspice. It fans out nicely on the finish, though I find it just a little hedonistic for my liking. Others who prefer that kind of style will like it more than myself. There is something almost anachronistic about this Solaia that I did not discern in the 1988 Sassicaia.