Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(the first vintage of Gran Bussia made with what Giacomo Conterno described as the estate’s new philosophy on more serious green harvesting and longer skin contact; aged for four years in two 25-hectoliter barrels and slated to be released in 2012 with the 2008 crus): Medium red. Perfumed, high-toned aromas of redcurrant, licorice, marzipan, graphite, menthol and fresh herbs. Suave and vibrant on entry, leaner than the 2007 Cicala that preceded it in my tasting but showing superb cut and energy. Compellingly dense and silky in the middle, with a terrific light touch and a strong savory quality to its red fruit, graphite and menthol flavors. An essence of Barolo in its restrained sweetness, outstanding intensity and tactile, juicy finish. According to Giacomo Conterno, Gran Bussia is from fruit picked at the very beginning of the harvest, 70% Romirasco old vines and 15% each Cicala and Colonello. Incidentally, there’s no 2007 Romirasco or Gran Bussia owing to hail.