Critic Review
Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)
Luminous garnet red. Perfumed nose of orange peel, cinnamon, sour red cherries, strawberries, talcum powder, and old fine leather, plus sneaky hints of slightly air-dried berries (not surprising, given how hot 2012 was, even taking into consideration that Biondi-Santi is one of the first estates to pick each year). Then juicy and dense with a silky mouthfeel to the flavors of red berries, blood orange and spices. Finishes long and silky now, but this specific Brunello Riserva was especially austere in its youth and so the estate decided to release it one year later than usual for sale. The wine carries an extra label “Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi” (dedicated to Franco Biondi Santi) who passed away in 2013; CEO Giampiero Bertolino explained to me that everyone at the estate believed this wine was a real snapshot of Franco and the Brunellos he most enjoyed drinking, and so it was decided to dedicate it to him. Actually, there’s an air-dried quality to this wine that is absolutely enchanting, if in my opinion not altogether typical of Franco’s work. No matter, it’s one of the top three Brunello Riservas of the 2012 vintage.
Ian d'Agata - 96
Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)
We had a backup, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This is still relatively youthful, a potent bouquet with Morello cherries, Clementines and cloves, developing more tertiary, almost leathery scents with aeration. The palate is well-balanced, with a keen line of acidity and a gentle grip in the mouth, finishing vivacious and slightly piquant. I would afford this another two or three years in bottle.
Neal Martin - 93
The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)
Like opening an old cedar treasure box, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva evolves in the glass with dusty sage, cloves, musky dried strawberries and crushed violets. Further swirling unlocks nuances of black tea, plum sauce and crushed rocks. This multifaceted beauty washes across the palate with finesse, silky and refined, peppering the senses with saline minerals and tart red berries that add grippy tension as savory spices swirl throughout, and brisk acids maintain a marvelously fresh persona. Edgy tannins are left to linger, revealing the Riserva's still adolescent state, as a saturation of cranberry and hints of sour citrus slowly taper off. It took a full two hours for the 2012 to fully blossom, but once it did, it was pure magic. There are many years of positive evolution in store here for patient collectors.
Eric Guido - 96
2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)
The 2012 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows tremendous depth with a layered, dark and haunting display of vibrant cherry, then mulled apple, autumnal crushed leaves, balsamic spice, dried flowers, leather strap, licorice and baker’s chocolate. It seems as if every time you come back to the glass, there’s another nuance to be found. Then, like a rollercoaster, it seems to peak with pretty feminine notes; and it then sways into a darker, deeper and more expressive place. It’s pure and poised with soft textures and amazing bright red fruit, guided by zesty acids mixing wild red berries with sour citrus and spiced herbal tea. The 2012 Riserva contrasts vibrancy with austerity, while coming across as youthfully structured yet energized by nervous tension, as if quite adolescent, all elbows and knees, tapering off to hints of cranberry, minerals and grippy tannin. The 2012 Riserva spent an extra year in bottle at the winery, because the estate felt that it wasn’t quite ready for public release in 2019. This vintage is also dedicated to Franco Biondi-Santi, being that it was the last wine that he gave his personal stamp of approval to.
Eric Guido - 96
