1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

($1; 495) Full medium red. Grilled nuts and maple syrup on the nose, along with a whiff of old wood; slight suggestion of maderization. Vinous but on the lean side, with a slight hardness. A less-than-stellar bottle that losing its fruit. ($1,395-$1,475): Old aromas of plum, marzipan and nutty oak. Lovely sweetness and mellow fruit enlivened by superb vinosity. Complicating note of tobacco. Very much an old wine but still with considerable appeal and length, if a trace of finishing dryness. But not a great bottle of this wine, which I’ve scored in the recent past as high as 98 points.