1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated dark red. Knockout nose of cherries macerated in alcohol, minerals and truffle; hints at a confectionary sweetness. A wine of extraordinary concentration and power; has the thick extract to buffer its alcohol. Finishes with great grip and near-freakish length. By far the best bottle I’ve had to date of this wine, which in the early ’90s seemed distinctly more alcoholic. (My second bottle was a tad cooler on the nose but also boasted uncommon density and thickness and an extremely powerful back end; I would have scored this bottle 95.) This vintage was my preference, as well as the first choice of both groups of tasters, despite the high quality of the other vintages poured.