1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Ruby-red. Initially reticent nose opened with aeration to show superripe aromas of crystallized raspberry, dark chocolate, coffee, mocha and spicy oak. Thick and very concentrated; will give great early pleasure due to its compelling sweetness. The ’96 and ’95 are much more closed now, notes Sylvian Pitiot, regisseurof Clos de Tart. Finishes very long, with a flavor of cherry pit; the tannins are ripe but a bit less fine than those of the ’98. Doesn’t have quite the freshness of the vintage very best examples, but this is utterly seductive juice.