1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Knockout sappy, wild aromas combine crystallized blackberry, blood pudding, bitter chocolate, mace, nutmeg and game. Penetrating, firm and bright, but quite densely packed and chewy. Burgaud told me he racks his strongest vintages as much as seven or eight times, but this ’98 has fruit of steel. Sauvage flavors of blackberry, spice, pepper and raw meat. Finishes chewy, long and very persistent.