1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Deep red. Expressive, very complex aromas of plum, leather, animal fur, minerals and smoke, along with spice and kirsch notes from the mourvedre. Concentrated, smooth and penetrating, thanks to excellent acidity; fresh and youthful. Plenty of volume here, as well as the balance to reward aging (Avril believes the wine will close down for five to seven years). Strong youthfully spicy character. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and subtle persistence. Doesn’t offer the roasted aspect of the most headspinning ’98s, but this is quite suave.