2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

(from a crop level of just 15 hectoliters per hectare, which Philippe described as the smallest here in decades) Saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of liqueur-like black raspberry, smoked meat and roasted nuts. A wine of incredible confectionery sweetness, density and depth, and atypically large-scaled (14. 5% alcohol) and glyceral for La Mouline. To suggest it lacks elegance may be quibbling. There’s powerful underlying structure here and a deep chocolatey ripeness on the finish, which features major but thoroughly ripe tannins and great breadth. Philippe Guigal noted that the ’03s finished even drier than the ’02s and ’01s, at less than one gram per liter of residual sugar. So the extraordinary sweetness of these wines simply reflects the freakish ripeness of the fruit.