2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

(tasted from a stainless steel tank, where it was awaiting bottling) Medium ruby. Black cherry, licorice, pepper and tar on the nose. Very dry but classy and aromatic, with currant fruit complicated by licorice, pepper, leather and fresh herbs. Rather bracing for a young Chave wine, and difficult to taste after the 2003, but the wine’s aromatic persistence suggests it will reward aging. Late notes of pepper and gunflint.