2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

From Beaumes: Ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black cherry, gunflint and spices. Sweet and liqueur-like in the mouth, with an almost jammy ripeness. But this very powerful, lush sample saturates the palate and lingers impressively. From Peleat, with a bit of Rocoules due to the tiny volume in 2003: Saturated medium ruby. Currant, minerals, tar and black pepper, along with an animal aspect. Offers confectionery sweetness on the palate, with flavors of red berry jam and pepper. A sample of extraordinary power, not to mention alcohol (16+%). Explosive finishing flavor of spicecake. From Diognieres, with a bit of Beaumes: Ruby-red. Aromas of jammy fruit, leather, earth and iron. Quite tight and closed today, dominated by its huge structure. A much drier sample, with a finishing note of chocolate. From L’Hermite with Bessards: Bright ruby-red. Expressive aromas of currant, licorice, tar, smoked meat, gunflint and minerals. Juicy and tightly wound, with superb precision and sound acidity. Very minerally and imploded. Quite tannic and backward. A superb sample. L’Hermite on its own: Saturated medium ruby. Aromas of currant, minerals and licorice. Extremely dense and powerful, with wonderfully sweet dark berries and spices. A great combination of freshness and sheer confectionery sweetness. Explosive finish features huge but thoroughly ripe tannins. All Bessards: Full ruby. Knockout nose of blueberry, blackberry, licorice and gunflint: pure granite. Superconcentrated, palate-staining fruit shows a liqueur-like sweetness but also miraculously comes off as fresh. This has the flesh to support its huge, building tannins. The most staggeringly long sample of wine I put in my mouth on my recent tour of the Northern Rhone Valley. A monster, but elegant, notes Chaves. From Meal (never racked): Medium ruby. Bright, multifaceted nose combines bitter cherry, licorice, pepper, flowers, bitter chocolate, tar and minerals. Voluminous and liqueur-like, with confectionery sweetness of fruit. Finishes hugely tannic but ripe, with palate-staining maraschino cherry flavor. The same juice from a new barrel showed much more torrefaction, but also a captivating note of violet and equal length. The ultimate blend in 2003 should make for a monumental Hermitage.