2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Saturated ruby. Aromas of black fruits, gunflint, earth and minerals show a jammy, port-like ripeness. Fat, lush and broad but not yet filled in. As superripe and sweet as this is today in the middle palate, it turns distinctly austere and stony on the back end, showing its granitic origin. Finishes with extremely fine-grained tannins that are a bit youthfully dry today. Hard to taste right now owing to its rawness: I may well be underestimating this wine.