2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, mocha and earth; currently in a shell and not showing the treble notes of La Tache. Then silky and thick but very closed, even inscrutable. Comes across as less sweet and less vibrant today than La Tache, but this is chewy, voluminous and quite powerful, with very good supporting acidity. Offers complex, soil-inflected flavors of tobacco, underbrush, damp soil and menthol, but less of the spicy high tones of La Tache. But the tannins here are even suaver, and the wine is at least as long. Give this and La Tache 12 to 15 years of aging.