2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)

Bright, full ruby-red, one of the darker 2004 Brunellos I’ve tasted to date. Precise aromas of cassis, licorice, bitter chocolate and nutty oak, with a suggestion of black pepper. More tangy and juicy on entry than the Tenuta Nuova and the normale, then rather imploded in the mouth, but with some mineral and floral topnotes that I don’t find today in the other wines. The most graceful and most varietally expressive of this trio, but still muscular and quite unevolved, with a powerful spine of acidity. The tannins coat the front teeth but this wine has the building sweetness to support them. This, too, will require patience and may ultimately merit an even higher score.