2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)

Classic Perrieres aromas of lemon, minerals and hazelnut. Broad, sweet and pure on entry, then a bit tight in the middle, with good juicy cut but only moderate flesh. Strong minerality carries through to the rather uncompromising finish, which is stony, tactile and quite dry. Morey says this needs eight to ten years, but I wonder how fully it will eventually blossom. Hints of nuts and caramel currently flatten the wine somewhat. Very tricky to taste today, and almost certainly better than it’s currently showing.