2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

(15.2% alcohol) Very pale color. Crystallized ginger, candied grapefruit, lime skin, melon and mint on the nose. Rich and quite primary, combining very ripe yellow fruit notes with more bracing licorice and mint. Very dense and quite dry, even a bit youthfully aggressive today. (This actually has 2.2 grams per liter of residual sugar, which is a definite positive for the balance of this outsized wine.) Conveys a tactile sense of mineral dust. The yield here was just 12 hectoliters per hectare due to spring frost, according to estate manager Paul Pontallier, and some lots came in with 16% potential alcohol. Very concentrated, palate-staining with a long pineappley finish that leaves the mouth feeling fresh.